Day 22 – 23 – Peggy’s Cove and Indian Harbour
We awoke to a very pretty day. Worked our routine. Before we left the mall area I decided to go and have a look at this Michael’s. I do crochet beaded bracelets and have been looking for different pieces than what I can find in Saskatoon. Was quite disappointed, left after just a few minutes and Larry had moved the rv over to Michael’s to pick me up. We then headed out, the way we thought Taff had told us about the evening before.
We made our first wrong turn, not far away, thought we had corrected it and headed into – you guessed it – construction, narrow streets and totally lost.
Larry spotted a gas station and decided to stop there to get gas and a map. While he was getting gas, I took the kids out for a brief outing and when I brought them back I noted that Larry was talking to another man also getting gas. This of course is not unusual and so I went into the store to ask for a map. I told the lady at the counter that we were lost and where we wanted to go and she started photocopying a map they had and ripping it up and photocopying more. We also had to get through Halifax, which is connected to Dartmouth by bridges.
As we were deep into conversation about how to get out of the construction site, the gentleman Larry had been talking to came in to pay for his gas. I’m going to call this man Eric. He was very friendly and just looking at him, and speaking to him for such a short while, Larry and I both felt and “intelligence”. He was about late 40’s, long grey ponytail and wearing work clothes. He also drove a Mercedes and was getting it washed.
He asked the lady what directions she had been giving me, he said “no”, that would be hard with the rv. He then started drawing a map. Finally after much discussion and map drawing, he said for us to wait and he would take us to the “New Bridge”, that he was already going this way.
Larry had appeared by now and we thanked Eric profusely. The garage was almost completely surrounded by construction, there was only one entry/exit and vehicles were constantly moving in and out. Larry did one of his magic tricks, turning an almost 35′ rv around in amongst parked vehicles, pumps and vehicles coming in and out! It never ceases to amaze me. Not long after we had completed the feat, Eric came along and we began to follow him. He took us out of the construction, through narrow streets and finally to the bridge. We had the instructions he had written to take us beyond.
Now you’d think that would be it, but no. Eric had forgotten, or we missed one little woopty do, and you guessed it, we were going in the wrong direction. We were not seeing any of the markers he told us to look for.
I then remembered sign we passed as we were coming off of the bridge, and I felt I remembered a mention by Eric, though it was not on the map. I thought this might be it, so we turned around and went back, made the woopty do and saw the first marker, a Super Store. Larry wanted to double check and so we stopped into the Super Store gas station. I was to go out and ask someone.
Well I went out and looked around. There were about 6 pumping stations lined up and at the end, the kiosk where you pay. I thought about going to the kiosk, but traditionally, the people don’t always have knowledge of maps and such. So my eyes darted from the first pump, and, yes, I guess I was profiling. I was determining in my mind who might know. Just running my intuition around if you will. I knew none of these people would be here very long. The first pump, no. the 2nd pump – grey haired gentleman with large black truck – bingo!
I went over and asked if this was the right direction to go to Highway 103. He said yes, but that you have to go to the 102 first. Ok, this was a bit of information missing as well. So I was about to leave it at that, happy in the knowledge that we were at least going in the right direction, when the gentleman – I’m going to call him “Rick”, said, I’m going that way, I just have to pay, if you want to wait. So wait we did!
He came over to the rv and continued to ask where we were headed, we told him “Peggy’s Cove”. He then said “I live around there, just follow me. It was indeed not so straight forward. This kind gentleman took us through all kinds of twists and turns and switchbacks. When traffic was such that the rv, couldn’t quite keep up, he pulled over and waited for us.
We started seeing signs for Peggy’s Cove, and after this, when we lost Rick in the distance, we were confident we were on the right road!
“But for the kindness of strangers”. We wished that somehow we could have thanked these two gentlemen, but of course we couldn’t. Without them we still might be going around in circles, or just said ” to hell with it” and not even gotten to our destination. We were utterly grateful.
After a lot of winding roads, we made it!
We parked in a parking lot and took the kids out to the most beautiful fishing village! The ocean was amazing! We stopped at a bench and took a few minutes to watch the waves crashing in. We took some pictures and videos. We meandered through the village with the kids, looking at shops and houses and tons of people doing the exact same thing.
Near the top, we noticed a large building that housed a restaurant and what looked like another parking lot. Larry decided to walk back to the rv in the hopes of bringing it up to this other parking lot, and we could have lunch. We were getting quite hungry by now.
While I was waiting, I went out to this area where I could see the lighthouse and took pictures. I continued walking over to the parking lot where Larry would come. The Kids and I waited. Then we saw the rv coming up the winding hill. He went around into the lot and then started coming out again. I went over and asked what was up and he said the lot was just for tour buses.
Earlier, I had checked on google as to where there might be dump sites. Larry had said it was time to dump. Seems that the smell that I had been smelling for at least 24 hours, was our black water! OMG I thought, everyone, including the two gentlemen who helped us, as well as our friends in Dartmouth could smell this! I was appalled, it wasn’t my imagination after all!
There was a dump site a little further up at “Indian Harbour”. We decided to drive there and check it out. It was only about 5 km further on and so we went. Found that it was an ocean side camp area. Just beautiful! We decided to stay for an extra night. Since it was the end of the season, the owner offered us a campsite that was about 10 feet from the ocean. There was one other campsite there, but it was seasonal and the seasonal people had pulled out. He wasn’t going to rent it out, so we in fact would have 2 campsites.
We waited at the site while Larry dumped. The only draw back about the ocean site was that it didn’t have it’s own dumpsite. We could see him working and finally he drove up to the site. After settling in a bit he told me that the reason we were getting the smell from the black water was that the hoses had gotten tangled and were leaking! He thought maybe from the rough road. Oh my, well what can I say? He had quite a mess to clean up!
The campsite was amazing. We could hear the waves, see the tide coming in. There was a lighthouse in the distance. We even watched a beautiful sunset that evening!. The kids were able to settle in as well. They enjoyed the extra room to run around.
The owners were so friendly. An elderly lady named “Kay” introduced herself when I went to the office. Very sweet. Seems she and her husband had been in this spot for 55 years. Her husband was a fisherman and she was originally from southern Saskatchewan! She was apparently 96. It appeared that her children had now taken over.
We were exhausted, but fell asleep listening to the ocean.
After a decent sleep we awoke to a bit of rain and mist. We spent the morning coming alive, cleaning up, taking the kids out, showering in, shall we say “rustic” showers.
We spent a peaceful afternoon. We noticed that there was a restaurant on the highway, right across from the campground and decided we would check it out for our supper. We walked over about about 5 pm – closed, to be opened again the next day. We’d be gone – darn.
We walked back and at this point realized that the power was out. Thankfully we had our generator. I put together a dinner which we enjoyed eating alfresco. While cooking, a lady came over and told us that the power was out due to an accident and would be out for a minimum of 3 hours. Turns out that it did not come back on until 1130!
Because we had such a nice large area, people would walk along the ocean, and of course in the extra spot. This would have been ok, but some people do not believe in the etiquette of just thinking about walking in front of our campsite. Also they had dogs as well, and failed to pick up after them.
There’s nothing like cleaning up after someone else’s dog. Believe it or not I could tell the difference as well!
We again went to sleep listening to the ocean for this our second and last night here. It was another part of the trip we would not forget!